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An honest man from Shanghai

March 03, 2023 by George Chen in Shanghai, Hong Kong, China

(This is a tribute to my grandpa)

By George Chen

Every Chinese family can tell a fascinating story of contemporary and modern China. So does my family – I mean my roots in Shanghai.

The story about my birth in Shanghai should start with my grandparents, and perhaps their parents too. My grandpa Shao Shude was born in the early days of the young Republic of China. In Chinese characters, his name Shu (樹) literally means tree (or “plant something”, as a verb) and De (德) means virtue. I understand the name comes from an old Chinese saying: It takes ten years to grow a tree; It takes a hundred years to grow (several generations of) people (十年樹木,百年樹人). 

For me, my grandpa did his job properly – to grow a few generations of us, my parents and his grandchildren. 

The Shao family

The story about my grandpa has to start with the family name Shao, which is the shared name of a humble village in the eastern Chinese province of Jiangsu close to the city of Shanghai. Few outsiders actually know that my grandpa was adopted by the quite wealthy Shao family in the village right after he was born in a very poor family, of which we don’t even know the name to this day. My great grandpa Shao Jinhai has always been a businessman in my memory. Shortly after he adopted my grandpa, the whole Shao family decided to move to Shanghai for their new life, and they did very well. 

In Chinese culture, a name means a lot. My great grandpa Shao Jinhai’s name literally means the “ocean (海) of gold (金)”. I know very little about my ancestors on my mom’s side prior to my great grandpa. But from the name of my grandpa I can guess that the Shao family must have set their life goals for being rich for a long time. My great grandpa turned the family goal into reality and proved himself a successful businessman in Shanghai. 

I don’t remember if anyone told me how my great grandpa started to build his business empire in Shanghai, including his core business about the production of matches. Let me remind you what a match is. A match is something you use to start a fire, for example, to light cigarettes. Nowadays few people will think of matches because of technology and innovation, i.e. the invention of lighters. But in the old days, matches were important resources and there were also match boxes people did collect, especially those boxes printed with rare labels.

According to my grandma, at one point my great grandpa’s match business occupied about one fourth of the total market share in Shanghai, making my great grandpa well known as a “King of Matches” (火柴大王). He might not have been as wealthy as top-tier tycoons like Du Yuesheng (杜月笙) and Huang Jinrong (黃金榮), but it was  good enough to have a high living standard in Shanghai, widely known as the “Paris of the Orient” in the Republican era. 

My great grandpa used to have a very beautiful private house on Yu Yuan Road (愚園路), one of the most elegant streets in Shanghai. The neighborhood alongside the street is full of the elites including Wang Jingwei (汪精衛), a controversial Chinese politician who for many years served as the puppet state head of China under Japanese rule, and ex-Shanghai Mayor during the Kuomintang (國民黨) era, Zhou Fohai (周佛海). Later when my grandpa got married, my great grandpa gifted him a spacious apartment right behind the famous Park Hotel (國際飯店) near the old racecourse, which is now the People’s Park in Shanghai.

Fast forward. When I bought my first property in Shanghai in the early 2000s, I happened to buy on the same classic Yu Yuan Road, not too far from the former residence of my great grandparents. Their residence was unfortunately taken over by the Communist government during the Cultural Revolution, just like many others who were labeled as “Big Capitalists”. 

I remember when I told my grandpa about my apartment on Yu Yuan Road. He told me he was happy and that the whole thing felt like a destiny of full cycle for our big family. What we lost in the older generation was regained in our own ways by the younger generation. 

Not exactly the same beautiful private house. But it already meant a lot.

The Shanghai legacy 

For the locals in Shanghai, location does mean a lot of things. Those areas in the city centre including the large former British and French concessions are known as “Upper Shanghai” (上隻角) and the rest are known as “Lower Shanghai” (下隻角). Location indicates your family background, your social status, and perhaps also your destiny - especially in the old times. 

Nowadays the locals tend to be more polite and don’t discuss locations openly. But in many local minds, I know people still have strong opinions about Pudong (浦東, the eastern side of the Huangpu River, which is now known as the Pudong New Area of Shanghai) versus Puxi (浦西, the “old town” of Shanghai, on the other side of the Huangpu River).

Born into a rich family, my grandpa didn’t need to worry about life that much from the very start. He was not very interested in my great grandpa’s business, which eventually saved him from trouble during the disastrous Cultural Revolution that completely changed the development path of modern China.

My grandma sometimes joked to me that my grandpa was known in his circle as an “honest playboy”. Being a playboy means he used to attend many balls in those luxurious nightclubs and dance halls, like The Paramount around the corner of Yu Yuan Road. Of course, it was so close to his old residence with the big family. Being “honest” means my grandpa reported everything he did and saw in those dance halls to my grandma, and later he decided to fade out of his “dancing circle” after he got married. 

Perhaps on the brighter side, my grandpa was lucky to have a good education during his youth. My great grandpa always encouraged his kids to study hard, as he believed in education that can change one’s destiny and make more fortune.

My grandpa first attended the Franco-Chinese School (中法學堂), established by French missionaries in 1886, which was taken over by the Shanghai government quickly after the end of the Civil War in the early 1950s and renamed the Shanghai Guangming High School (上海光明中學). Guangming means “brightness”, a popular name for buildings, factories, and almost everything in the era of Chinese Communist leader Mao Zedong (毛澤東).

Perhaps it was just another coincidence that I was accepted by Shanghai Guangming High School – decades after my grandpa’s studies at the Franco-Chinese School – and I had quite bright memories of my schoolhood in Guangming. 

After the Franco-Chinese School, my grandpa continued to study at St. John's University, a Christian university in Shanghai founded in 1879 by American missionaries. In the history of contemporary China, St. John’s University is often dubbed by scholars as the “Harvard of China”. 

I don’t remember if my grandpa managed to graduate from St. John’s or not. It was an extraordinary time in China. First, the Japanese came, and then the Civil War broke out. I do remember my grandpa told me his father donated money to the National Government of Kuomintang to sponsor the Chinese military to buy planes to fight against the Japanese.

During the Chinese Civil War, my great grandparents were both already much older and they began to plan their retirement, including moving to a safer place like Hong Kong, still under British rule at that time and a popular destination for rich migrants from Shanghai. 

Hong Kong, almost

Before the Civil War ended in 1949, some of the big Shao family moved to Hong Kong and Taiwan respectively. In the old days of Shanghai, a man was allowed to marry several wives legally, hence my great grandpa had several women, including a nurse-turned “second wife”, who eventually settled down in Hong Kong.

However, my great grandpa himself decided to stay in Shanghai partly due to the large scale of his assets, including properties, factories, and many workers who worked for him for almost their entire lives. So my grandparents, who come from the wing of the “official first wife” of my great grandpa, also decided to stay.

Such a life-changing decision quickly proved to be a big mistake that my grandma has complained about for decades.

When I told my grandparents about the opportunity for me to move to Hong Kong for a job with the British news agency Reuters in 2007, I still remember such a firm, direct, and short answer from both of them: “Go, of course you should go.”

In the early 1950s, the Communist government did show a lot of respect to the capitalists  for social and economic stability in Shanghai. My great grandpa was allowed to keep most of his businesses, including the core match business, private and independent. Later the government declared matches should be included as part of “resources for military use” and proposed to form a new joint venture with my great grandpa.

My great grandpa had to accept the so-called peace-making deal, even though  his stake of the company was sold to the government at a very cheap price.

The Cultural Revolution changed everything and everyone in China during its horrible ten years. It should be no surprise to anyone that my great grandpa’s business was eventually fully occupied by the government and his whole family, including my grandpa, became  “enemies of the people”. The reason? Because they were rich so they were the opposite of the proletariat, i.e. the workers.

To make a living, my grandparents had to find ways to deal with the “Red Guards” who can rush to your home and search for everything again and again without any legal notice or permission. The “Red Guards” were the loyalists of Mao. They were the kings during the Cultural Revolution. My great grandpa, once upon a time known as the “King of Matches” in Shanghai, was suddenly nobody.

My grandma once told me some funny stories of how she managed to hide some assets during those random home searches by the “Red Guards”. One day she decided to hide some money in a big framed portrait of Chairman Mao. “I guess they don’t dare to touch anything that symbolizes Chairman Mao,” she said, jokingly.

How lucky. If she was caught, it could mean the death of my grandma. In those turbulent times, all families in China tried to save their own lives and only care about their own interests. The several generations of the “Cultural Revolution” eventually became the very selfish generations, which to this day I think still have some long term implications on Chinese society.

One of my favorite books about this part of Chinese history is “Life and Death in Shanghai”, an autobiography published in the United States in November 1987 by Nien Cheng. Cheng’s story was far more dramatic, but I know every Chinese family who survived from the decade-long Cultural Revolution can certainly share a lot of similar memories.

After the Cultural Revolution, my grandpa was invited by the government to return to work for the Shanghai Match Factory, which was the result of the merger of three or four private match manufacturers in Shanghai, including the one owned by my great grandpa. Apart from a job offer at the new state-owned enterprise, my grandpa didn’t get anything else for compensation. In fact, no one talked about compensation as if the Cultural Revolution never really happened.

My grandpa accepted the job and then he became an accounting manager at the factory, thanks to some financial knowledge he learned during his time at St. John’s. He worked in more or less the same role until he retired in his early 60s.

The rest of his life – for almost another three decades – was mostly content and fun, together with the big Shao family.I should say his post-retirement life was also quite “delicious” as my grandpa focused more on his hobbies of eating and cooking. In today’s popular language, my grandpa was quite a foodie.

Being a fellow foodie, I definitely inherited  his DNA!  

Eight Treasures

My grandpa was a big fan of spicy cuisine. The more spicy, the better for him. His passion for spicy food left a mark on my tastes too.  I can add a few spoons of spicy sauce, especially the Chinese Sichuan-style chili sauce, to anything I eat, wonton, noodle, soup, beef, crabs, and almost anything else you can name. My mom is often worried if I add too much spice, which the doctor will warn you about lest you get stomach trouble.

One of the most popular dishes my grandpa cooked for the family was something we call “Eight Treasures in Spicy Sauce” (八寶辣醬) in Shanghai. It’s called “Eight Treasures” for a reason.

Eight is a really lucky number in Chinese culture. A dish with 8 main ingredients? It’s luck in a bowl. This is a common dish for any Shanghai family and different families cook in their own ways. The eight ingredients usually include pork, chicken, or both, and shrimp, mushrooms, bamboo shoots and so on. There is no strict rule on what the eight ingredients must be, as long as you get eight main things as you don’t want to miss the lucky number eight.

For me and my family, my grandpa’s “Eight Treasures” is always the best we can get in Shanghai. It had been a family tradition for many years that the big Shao family get together for reunion dinner on Lunar New Year’s Eve and my grandpa would cook “Eight Treasures” as one of the dishes. In more recent years, the Shao family began to choose to dine out on Lunar New Year’s Eve due to my grandparents’ age. I told my mom I did miss the good old days when the whole big family could sit around the table for dinner at home – usually at the residence of my grandparents – rather than in a hotel or restaurant. 

The last time my grandpa cooked “Eight Treasures” for me was in the autumn of 2019 when I made a quick trip to my hometown Shanghai. My parents and I went to see my grandparents and it was a short visit as we didn’t want to bother them too much. However, my grandpa insisted I should stay for at least one hour and then he went to the kitchen to cook the “Eight Treasures”. He knew I liked to eat “dry noodle” mixed with the “Eight Treasures” and that became my quick lunch before we said bye to my grandparents.

One of my regrets is I didn’t get a chance to ask my grandpa to write down his “family secret” recipe for “Eight Treasures” and I don’t think I can have the same taste any more. Or perhaps it’s more about my memory than the taste of food.

A big and open heart

Talking of “family secrets”, one of the “open secrets” for the big Shao family is my grandpa’s health situation since he was just a child.

Shortly after my grandpa was adopted, my great grandpa got a doctor to do full checks and the doctor quickly confirmed my grandpa may have some genetic heart problems. I don’t know the details, but I remember once my grandparents jokingly saying some doctors predicted my grandpa would not live long given his heart problem. This had been an open secret for the Shao family for decades while nobody really wanted to talk about it at all.

I still don’t know if my grandpa took his heart problem too seriously or perhaps just let it be. It may have some impact on his personality as my grandma sometimes complained that my grandpa was not an “ambitious man”.

“If your grandpa is a little bit more ambitious, he perhaps could take over more wealth and business from your great grandpa, and perhaps the whole family would have settled down in Hong Kong or Taipei rather than being stuck in Shanghai during the Cultural Revolution,” my grandma once said to me in front of my grandpa.

My grandpa laughed. In response, he jokingly said it was all about destiny and God knew how to deal with everyone and everything. Sometimes I wonder if his sort of Confucius approach to life was a result of his heart disease. If so, then it turned out my grandpa did enjoy a very big and open heart for the world and people around him.

When my grandparents knew my decision to move to Hong Kong, the only advice they gave me was “to take better care of myself from now on.” For them I may be like someone who can finally take over the torch from my grandparents and carry it to Hong Kong, a place where they almost decided to move, way before the perfect storm of Cultural Revolution hit all the capitalists on the Mainland.

My grandpa did visit Hong Kong a couple of times, accompanying my great grandpa for some business trips. That was before the end of the Civil War and my great grandpa felt it was important to diversify investments so he decided to move some wealth abroad. Hong Kong, just like nowadays, has always been the first choice for many rich Chinese to consider when it comes to diversifying their investments and wealth.

I once joked with my grandparents if they decided to move to Hong Kong in the early days, then my mom would be born in Hong Kong, and who knew whom my mom would meet and my dad would be, or perhaps I would not have been born into the world. They all laughed when I made such meaningless hypotheses.

Of course, life cannot afford to have so many “ifs”. Life is all about who, when and what happens. Like what my grandpa said, life was all about destiny.

At the age of 91, my grandpa made his life complete and concluded his destiny.

This is the story of my grandpa. I decided to write this because I want his story to be told and remembered. His life may seem like an insignificant one but he did live through all the significant changes of contemporary and modern China, for better or for worse.

Every Chinese family must have a story to tell. This is our story.

Farewell, my grandpa. 

(February 28, 2023, Shanghai, China)

March 03, 2023 /George Chen
Shanghai, China, Hong Kong
Shanghai, Hong Kong, China

Shanghai Xiao Nan Guo

February 26, 2023 by George Chen in Shanghai, China, Review, travel

Founded in 1987, Xiao Nan Guo (小南國) is one of the largest Chinese chain restaurant operators with branches all over the vast nation, from its home and origin in Shanghai, to Beijing, Dalian, and to Hong Kong and so on.

When Xiao Nan Guo started about 35 years ago, the first few namesake restaurants focused on Shanghaiese cuisine and later they all expanded to Sichuan, Canton (aka “Yue”), and more northern Chinese cuisines.

Some of my favorite dishes we ordered tonight for a team dinner are:


1. Steamed “white cut” chicken 白斬雞
2. Pan-fried belt fish 乾煎帶魚
3. Stir-fried shredded river eels 炒鱔糊
4. Pan-fried meat bun 生煎包

Very content and full now.

February 26, 2023 /George Chen
Shanghai, cuisine, restaurant, WhatGeorgeEats
Shanghai, China, Review, travel

全世界都可以打邊爐

February 22, 2023 by George Chen in Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Central Asia, Review, travel

香港人喜歡「打邊爐」,也就是吃火鍋。套用一段很多年前香港某商場流行過的廣告語,開心的時候可以打邊爐,不開心的時候也想要打邊爐,全世界只有一個香港,香港人就是喜歡打邊爐。是的,香港人對火鍋這件事就是這樣的執著。

我也喜歡吃火鍋,而且我喜歡全世界找火鍋店吃。去年去愛爾蘭首都都柏林出差,忍不住問當地的同事,哪裏有火鍋,然後硬是拖着幾個同事(包括幾位在都柏林工作的香港同事在內)跑到都柏林的「中國城」一條街上的一間火鍋店吃火鍋。其實我已經忘記那天晚上吃了什麼,只記得那晚好像是我在都柏林吃的最開心的一餐。

要說火鍋的發源,我的一位蒙古朋友一定會和你滔滔不絕講起「一代天驕」成吉思汗的威猛歷史。火鍋的起源其實很難考證,坊間一直流傳很多不同版本,其中一個版本是說成吉思汗可能是火鍋發明者之一,眾所周知,蒙古自古以來盛產肥羊,作為遊牧民族,成吉思汗及部下為圖方便,走到哪裏,吃到哪裏,哪裏有羊,就馬上殺了羊並趁新鮮直接放入滾燙的熱水中,成吉思汗等人意外發現,如此一來他們就有了非常鮮美的羊肉湯喝,再後來又加入蔬菜等不同食材,火鍋的飲食習慣就此開始逐漸形成。在中國北方,吃火鍋是一定要有羊肉的,所以在北方吃火鍋其實也叫「涮羊肉」,最出名的「涮羊肉」包括如今在北京還有不少連鎖店經營的「東來順」。

我在蒙古首都烏蘭巴托吃過幾次火鍋,和當年成吉思汗一群人共享一鍋不同,蒙古人如今吃火鍋都是每人一小鍋。我覺得很好,非常衞生,而且自己想吃什麼湯底自己選,也不用考慮別人的口味。在蒙古吃火鍋,自然也少不了羊肉,而且這裏不僅僅是一種羊肉,基本上羊的不同部位都會用來吃火鍋。蒙古草原羊用來涮羊肉非常鮮美,我和當地朋友笑言,我在蒙古吃過涮羊肉,恐怕再去別的地方吃羊肉火鍋,我會變得非常挑剔。

還有一次我去中亞國家哈薩克斯坦出差,忍不住問當地的朋友,哪裏有火鍋,我說英文「hot pot」,對方是哈薩克本地人,居然一開始沒聽懂,然後拿出手機用Google搜索了一番,終於搞明白我說的「hot pot」是什麼,於是便開車帶我去了一間所謂的「火鍋店」,入店一看,感覺更像是串串燒專門店。原來哈薩克斯坦的火鍋店都是這樣的,肉和菜都是一件一串事先串好的,肉菜也都是同一個價格,結賬時候老闆看你拿了幾串,這樣就知道總共多少錢了。

新加坡人也喜歡吃火鍋,海底撈的創始人張勇早年發達後移民新加坡,也把海底撈成功帶入新加坡,有一段時間,海底撈在新加坡幾乎成為火鍋代名詞。當然,新加坡也有自己原創的膠原蛋白「美滋鍋」,據說喝富含膠原蛋白的湯對皮膚好,很多新加坡女孩子都喜歡結伴去吃「美滋鍋」。後來新加坡的「美滋鍋」還在台北開分店,開業初還引發大家連日來排隊等吃火鍋的盛況。

台北本地的火鍋店也絕對不是「吃素的」,競爭程度非常激烈。我在台北的朋友知道我喜歡吃火鍋,喜歡到幾乎要把全台北的大小火鍋店吃遍,從劉德華、郭富城當年都愛光顧的「太和殿」,到豆腐和鴨血可以一直免費加的「無老鍋」、已經在香港開設分店的「鼎王」、打着「吃到飽」旗號(包括吃完火鍋還有無限量哈根達斯雪糕供應)的馬辣火鍋,還有號稱火鍋界愛馬仕的「橘色」⋯⋯

喜歡吃辣的朋友,一定不會錯過只有在台北才能吃到的「老四川」。總之我每次去台北,一個星期就算每晚都吃火鍋,我也不會有絲毫不滿。

其實我最喜歡的台北火鍋店並非那幾家連鎖店,真正的心頭好都是朋友帶我去的那種本地小店,那種一進門只有四五張桌子的小店,然後老闆一邊幫你準備食材,一邊有空就過來和你乾一杯。最近一次去台北,和幾個好朋友找了一家他們喜歡的小店吃火鍋,要了幾瓶台灣啤酒,配火鍋最佳。臨走時,火鍋店老闆忽然跑來找我,然後送我一個小盒子,原來盒內裝着六個印有台啤logo的玻璃杯。老闆說,玻璃杯是商家促銷送的,雖不值錢,但今天我們有緣一起吃火鍋,這才是人生價值所在。送你杯子,希望你記住你在台北的一切美好。

老闆短短幾句話,情真意切,溫暖我心。原來我們有時候吃的不僅僅是火鍋,而是一種情懷。和誰吃,在哪裏吃,這和火鍋的用料一樣重要。

為什麼我喜歡吃火鍋?我覺得有打邊爐這件事確實不僅僅在於吃那麼簡單,吃火鍋有這幾個優勢。

第一,火鍋食材很豐富,牛羊雞豬肉任選,牛肉還分澳洲的還是日本的和牛,不同牛肉下鍋時間不同,可見吃火鍋也有大學問。香港人打邊爐還喜歡選很多海鮮,魚和蝦是基本款,有錢就再買幾個鮑魚下鍋,朋友面前也很有面子,也可以表示自己日子過得還算不錯。

其次,一頓火鍋可以吃好長時間,大家一邊吃,一邊聊,聊吃的,聊穿的,聊開心的、不開心的,聊工作,聊社會,聊人生。忽然之間,火鍋拉近了你我的距離感。一頓火鍋下來,新朋友變老朋友,老朋友變知心朋友。

當然,以我自己為例,不是隨便拉幾個人一起就會去吃火鍋,能夠一起坐下來吃火鍋的朋友應該至少都算是說得上話的。正所謂道不同而不相為謀,如果只是為了商業應酬,我們大可以去吃西餐,你點一份牛排,我點一份牛排,各吃各的,禮尚往來,冠冕堂皇。吃火鍋,那才真的算是把你當朋友。大家吃的是火鍋,見的是人心。

以前許多港產片都會有這樣的故事情節,某個大佬收工,然後叫了一幫小弟跑到一個自己熟悉的路邊排檔吃火鍋,大佬坐主桌,身邊坐的都是最賣命的兄弟,然後其他小弟圍着坐其他幾桌,場景很是氣派。我想可能也只有吃火鍋才有這樣的氣場。

記得下次再有香港的朋友找你打邊爐,那也可能是人家把你當真朋友的一種表現。香港人鍾意打邊爐,其實也是因為香港人愛交朋友,愛談天說地,有口福,有人生。

(原文首發於香港《大公報》副刊,2023年2月22日。)

February 22, 2023 /George Chen
hotpot, foodie, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Mongolia, Central Asia, WhatGeorgeEats, cuisine
Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Central Asia, Review, travel

上海人的一些神話

April 18, 2022 by George Chen in Shanghai, China

一轉眼,已經是人間四月天,在2022年最初的四個月內,有兩件事情讓上海一度成為大家關注的焦點,一件事是眼下的疫情,說來話長,100個上海人可能有200個傷心故事可以訴說,我就不在這贅述了。另外一件事情則是因為一部電影而引發的大家對上海的激烈討論,這部電影就是《愛情神話》。

電影《愛情神話》嚴格來講應該算是2021年作品,因為她首發於2021年聖誕節前夕,不過等她真的衝出上海,影響力擴及兩岸三地甚至美國和加拿大,那還是最近幾個月的事情。如果說最近的疫情讓上海的國際形象陷入前所未有的低谷,電影《愛情神話》又真是把全國人民對上海人乃至上海的“羨慕嫉妒恨”推到了已經多年未見的高潮。

聽說《愛情神話》的導演邵藝輝並非土生土長上海人,但我不得不佩服她對上海的細微觀察,很難想像這是在上海生活幾年的人就能深刻把握到的,我也因此相信導演是一個真正愛上上海的人,她對《愛情神話》的投入可能也算是她對上海的愛的一種回報。

電影中有五個關於上海的細節令我印象深刻,這五個細節可能特別對像我這樣出生於上海,但又已背井離鄉十多年的人來說,尤其感慨萬千,一來感慨原來還有人記住上海以及上海人的這些特點,二來也感慨還有多少的上海特點我們還能傳承下去。

咖啡

上海人喜歡喝咖啡,全國人民都知道,有些人甚至會對此有種鄙視的態度,因為不止一個人和我提過,你們上海人,向來崇洋媚外,喜歡喝咖啡,咖啡有什麼好喝的,中國人喝茶,茶才有文化。

說這樣話的人也真是沒有境界,咖啡和茶,從來就不是魚和熊掌不可兼得那樣對立。在上海,喜歡喝茶的也大有人在,茶和咖啡都可以在上海流行,這也恰恰是上海足以海納百川的最佳體現。 

電影中,從馬路邊的修鞋匠到男主角老白(徐崢飾),還有老白和李小姐(馬伊琍飾)約會,哪怕是電影結尾,都離不開“一起喝杯咖啡”這樣的細節。作為歷史上乃至今時今日仍是內地最開放的城市,咖啡是上海之精氣神所在,喝杯咖啡,氣定神閒,然後繼續幹活,上海人為全國做出更大的貢獻。

地段

上海人可能是全國人民中最講究“地段”的。 

地段代表什麼?地段代表面子。上海人最愛講面子。面子又是什麼?面子即尊嚴。家裡再沒錢,出來也要有模有樣。以前逢年過節,每個上海人,無論男女老少,都會做好自己的頭型,穿新衣服,給晚輩的紅包更是免不了。“再怎麼樣,也不要給人看不起。”這是很多上海家庭常說的。多多少少上海人正是在這樣一種激勵下成長起來,然後終於做出一番屬於自己的事業。

電影中李小姐的媽媽家在永康路,這個地段在上海真是好到不可以再好。雖然走進去看看,屋子比較雜亂,面積很小,但正如老一代上海人常說的那句話“寧要浦西一張床,不要浦東一間房”,而今你問問身邊的上海人,可能絕大多數上海人內心依然有種對浦西特有的仰慕與眷戀,如果可以選,十個上海人可能有九個選浦西,開一個玩笑,另一個上海人可能正準備出國⋯⋯

電影中的老白和李小姐住的不遠,也算是“上只角”,老白家屋頂上還有幾個衛星電視的天線,導演對這個細節的把握也是非常厲害。上海人肯定是全國最早一批自己在家裡安裝衛星電視的,尤其是在我成長的年代,哪個上海家庭可以看到“鳳凰衛視”,大家就覺得他們家好像特別厲害。因為衛星電視的事未必合法,原則上除了一些涉外小區,其他大多都是自己偷偷摸摸裝的,後來政府還專門整頓過幾次,但是依然擋不住上海人對外面世界的好奇心。當然,這在某些人看來,又是一個上海人如何“崇洋媚外”的罪狀⋯⋯

自行車與城管

電影開始沒多久就發生這樣一個重要的小插曲,可能算是“男二”的老烏騎著自行車(上海人叫“腳踏車”)去家裡附近的小酒吧喝杯東西,老烏剛剛把車在馬路邊停好,一個操外地口音的城管馬上衝上來叫老烏不要停在這邊,老烏據理以爭,結果還是不敵城管的恐嚇,乖乖騎車走人。 

老烏於是對老白留下一句話,說他不能再在這個地方(上海)待下去了,他過幾天就要去歐洲。最令我驚訝的是老烏更進一步說了句,上海已經不是他的上海了,現在上海人都被其他人管起來了。

短短幾句,感慨萬千。

我相信老烏說這句話的時候絕對不是“仇外”,而老白也特別提到,如何定義上海人,上海人祖上可以說全部都是外地人。但是,我們也不能忽視眼下存在著許多“喧賓奪主”的問題,比如有些人覺得上海人講上海話就是“仇外”,自己也不想去了解上海的一些本地文化和習慣。久而久之,許多對立面就形成了,這是大家都不願見到的。我對這點感同身受,老烏一句“上海已經不是他的上海了”又何嘗不是今天許多香港人對香港的困惑與焦慮的寫照。

想起My Little Airport《美麗新香港》中的一段歌詞,歌中這樣唱到:“這世界只有一種鄉愁,是你不在身邊的時候,這香港已不是我的地頭,就當我在外地飄流⋯⋯”

Jimmy Choo與蝴蝶酥

上海人歷來注重生活品味。品味是什麼?品味是你對人生的一種態度。

李小姐一個月收入可能兩三萬人民幣,但她就是要拿出三分之一的錢給自己買一雙Jimmy Choo的高跟鞋,也硬是要給女兒上雙語國際學校,這些都是李小姐對自己人生的一種態度。

生活品味未必總是要花上幾萬塊錢才能獲得,比如電影中提到的“蝴蝶酥”,還特別提到上海的國際飯店的蝴蝶酥最好吃,這樣的享受其實不需要花太多錢,但也恰恰是上海人對生活品味追求的一種映射。言下之意,我要吃蝴蝶酥,就吃最好的,就吃我最信得過的,否則我寧可不吃。

這讓我想起最近疫情下的上海,有人拍了一組照片,說上海人就是“矯情”,超市裡面東西都搶光了,剩下的都是一些最便宜的午餐肉,哪怕日常用的廁所紙,最快被搶光的都是大牌子,那些最廉價的反而一直被拋棄在上海的超市貨架上,無人問津。

話說回來,李小姐也確實是典型的上海人,馬伊琍演的非常到位。劇中的李小姐特別知道如何拿捏分寸,什麼情況下說什麼樣的話,老白說他要幫李小姐買一雙新的Jimmy Choo,李小姐馬上說她自己那雙舊的鞋只不過是“淘寶貨”,200塊搞定,那是因為李小姐不想老白花錢,尤其在大家關係還不確定的時候,最好不要欠人情。

李小姐關於Jimmy Choo的這個細節其實也是許多上海人的一個性格特點。你幫我,我也幫你,但是我也不想欠你太多人情,你在上海,經常會聽到本地人說一句“伐好意思”(不好意思),這點和香港(廣東話叫“唔該”)和台灣社會的價值觀很相近。話說回來,香港和台灣在內戰後的幾代移民中,上海人也確實佔了不小比例。

老烏

最後我想說說老烏(周野芒飾)這個角色。 

有些人可能覺得老白是一號男主角,因為電影英文片名“B for Busy”就是源於老白(Bai),但我倒是覺得老烏作為男二號,是給整部戲對上海的描寫和理解做了非常重要的提升。沒有老烏,《愛情神話》就只不過是一部上海弄堂市井小品,有了老烏,大家才進一步體會到上海以及上海人與世界的連結。

歷史上,上海是全國最開放的城市,也曾是全國最富有的城市,舊上海的開放(以當時上海的國際大都市地位而言)和富有(從中央銀行到上海四大家族的財力)可能連今天的香港都望塵莫及。去年不幸去世的世界著名漢學家、耶魯大學教授史景遷(Jonathan Spence)曾經還在耶魯專門開過一門關於上海的課,通過上海來解剖分析整個中國的近代史和價值觀,也可見上海對中國的重要性。

時過境遷,上海今天於全國而言依然相當重要,是內地最具國際連結的金融中心城市,而老烏這個角色從某種意義上說也是新舊上海的一種傳承。新舊交替,有很多變化,也有很多不變,比如上海人對外面世界的嚮往與追求,我不覺得這是什麼“崇洋媚外”,這反而可以理解成上海從來就是中國“改革開放”的最佳典範。

老烏身上有很多所謂“海派文化”的體現,比如大家常說的“洋涇浜英文”,他甚至還會講幾句法語(我在上海時就讀的光明中學,也是我的外公就讀的學校,至今仍保留很好的法語教學以及與法國一些學校師生的交流),比如他和老白的友誼,那種上海人常說的“模子”精神,即便大家沒有血緣關係,但卻因為理念和境界的一致,走到一起,兄弟情深,有難同當,再比如老烏對女性的尊敬,無論老烏交過多少女朋友,但他捫心自問都對得起每一段感情,每次都是真心付出過⋯⋯

老烏最終走的很突然,就好像上海的時代交替,忽然間,一切就停止了,然後新的篇章被打開,大家的生活還是會繼續,雖然偶爾也會想起過去的一些事情。

因為疫情的關係,我也差不多快三年沒有回上海了,電影《愛情神話》讓我重拾很多對上海的美好回憶,更何況可以一次性聽完全片差不多兩個小時的上海話對白,這也不禁令我有些慚愧,在香港一直不講上海話,自己對一些上海話的用詞都已略感生疏了。

記憶就是這樣,越來越模糊,也好像越來越深刻,但歸根究底,我們都還是會記住。

(完)

April 18, 2022 /George Chen
Shanghai, 上海, China, 中國
Shanghai, China

Cui Jian, 2022

Cui Jian is still Cui Jian

April 16, 2022 by George Chen in China

I interviewed Cui Jian (崔健), aka the “Godfather of Chinese rock’n’roll”, when I first started my career as an entertainment news reporter in Shanghai. I still remember he gave me a signed poster after the interview. I was just thrilled.

Cui Jian is widely considered as the “John Lennon or Bob Dylan of China.” My generations all grew up with his songs — those are more than just songs. If you want to understand China and its vast changes, listen to Old Cui.

He gave a live concert online on April 15 Friday, especially for those who are in lockdowns still. The live concert attracted about 45 million audience online — quite a surprise to Cut himself as well as the government perhaps.

At home or abroad, Cui’s fame is always associated with Chinese politics. In more recent years, Cai has been quite low profile as he worked more behind the scenes on music production and tried to find and grow new and younger talents.

While I was listening to his long-awaited live concert with many of my friends in China on WeChat, they shared exactly the same feeling — Cui didn’t age too much; Spiritually, he’s still the Old Cui we know. You can feel the energy and passion even from behind the screens rather than in person.

Cui told a local host at the end of the concert that he felt nowadays people focused too much on materials and tried to create and waste too many resources. “That kind of attitude (of greed) can result in conflicts, and even wars,” he added.

When Cui began to sing “The Lost Season” (迷失的季節), some netizens sent “Freedom” in live comments!

It means a lot. Indeed, after so many years and especially nowadays, let’s not forget what freedom really means to all of us. Freedom makes you proud. Freedom makes a nation proud.

April 16, 2022 /George Chen
China, 中國
China
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